Нужна помощь

[Kallisto777]

Товарищи, нуждаюсь в вашей помощи.
Очень нужно изображение костюма венгерской знати (мужского и женского) середины 15 века. Поиски в интернете ничего путного не дали( Помогите пожалуйста, буду очень признательна.

@темы: Нужна помощь, Реконструкции и стилизации, 15 век

Comments

[Umeko]

Men's Clothes

Descriptions which focused on the difference between the clothes worn by the Hungarians and those worn by western European people were very valuable. On the basis of sources we can state that in the 15th century in Hungary people wore special clothes. It was known about Pipo Ozorai, king Matthias's famous commander and ispán [bailiff] of Temes, that despite his Italian origins he dressed like a Hungarian: he had a long beard, shoulder-length hair, and his clothes reached the ground, "according to the habits of those people". The minister of the Prince of Milan also warned his lord that his representatives should wear long clothes, since at king Matthias's court short clothes, made according to Italian-Burgundian fashion, are not preferred.

Men's clothes in Hungary in the 15th century consisted of a shirt and trousers as underwear, and a dolman worn over them, as well as a short fur-lined or sheepskin coat. At special occasions people wore gowns made of expensive materials, and these preferred by Ozorai too. Hungarian people had unique hair styles and wore high (fur) caps. Their trousers were simple in general, only their colour being unusual, but the dolman covered the greater part of the trousers. The Hungarian shirt - according to the description of Hippolit Estei, archbishop of Esztergom, then bishop of Eger - was long, folded at the neck, and on the basis of both written sources and illustrations, was decorated with embroidery on the neck, chest and the end of the sleeves.

The dolman, worn over the shirt, was often made of silk or velvet, or sometimes fur for rich people, but it was worn by everybody in a less elegant form. The dolman usually reached down to the knees, but according to Cesare Valentini's notes, Hungarian noblemen wore short upper clothes, that is dolmans, for riding. There are only a few descriptions of fur-lined coats, but several sources mentioned sheep-skin coats. King Matthias wore a decorated coat on his shoulders, that is a fur-lined coat, on one of the days of his wedding.

The most typical Hungarian item of clothing was the sheep-skin coat. It was worn by everyone, from the king to the shepherd, the only difference being in the material and style of sewing. The Hungarian sheep-skin coat had buttons at the front, and it was a long cloak or gown with fur lining inside. The fur coat of the king or dignitaries was made of brocade and silk with ermine or sable fur. The employees of the royal chamber wore beech marten-skin coats, and guards wore sheep-skin coats, but the shepherd of the Archbishop of Esztergom also received a sheep-skin coat - according to Hippolit Estei's book of accounts.

There were different caps and hats for different clothing. Hungarian-type caps had an embroidered or fur rim and a feather decoration with pearls and precious stones in the middle. Hungarian hair styles were also different from the European fashion: as it was mentioned about Pipo Ozorai, in Hungary long hair and a long beard were common. In 1489 in Milan, Matthias's minister Moses Buzai, produced a sensation, when he wore his hair in long plaits decorated with pearls. Boots, which were considered typically Hungarian, appeared first in the 15th century, under Turkish influence.

From the first half of the 15th century the armour of the members of the heavy cavalry consisted of a plate armour covering the whole body and the necessary weapons. Palatine Emeric Szapolyai and his brother, Stephen, and Thomas Tarcai, Matthias's famous commander, were represented in such an armour on Emeric Szapolyai's tombstone in Csütörtökhely. The clothes of the members of light cavalry were totally different: by the turn of the 15th-16th centuries Hungarian hussar-type clothes appeared as a result of Turkish influence, which consisted of a long gown, a hat with an ostrich feather decoration and Turkish boots. The earliest hussar illustration survived from around 1500 on a sabre, but we could find hussars on cuts representing Emperor Maximilian's life.

The main weapons of heavy cavalry were the spear and the sword, which might have been supplemented by the dagger and the club. War spears were about 4 meters long, and they were hung onto a hook on the breast plate during attacks. The hands of the knight were protected by a big round disk, and this also ensured the safest position for holding the spear. In the 15th century swords became larger - in order to be more effective against plate armour -, the most popular ones being over 1 meter in length. They were heavy and had a double edged blade. In Hungary a special type of club, the so-called feathered club was used, and according to written sources there was also a special Hungarian dagger.

The weapons of the light cavalry in the 15th century were the sabre, the spear and the bow, but clubs or battle axes were also used. The most widespread type of sabre was the hussar sabre, copied from Turkish models. It had a single blade, which was slightly curved, and its hilt was straight and wide. Hungarian sabres with curved hilts turned up in the 16th century, and they became the most popular weapons. Warriors both in the heavy and light cavalry used shields to protect themselves. Shields were usually made of wood, with their surface covered with leather or linen, but the hussars often used small, round shields woven from reeds.

Women's Clothes, Jewels

Women's clothes did not change much during the 15th century. They consisted of two parts: a shirt, underwear, and a dress, as upper clothes, which was called skirt. The dress was cut around the neck, so the neck of the shirts - which was visible - was decorated with embroidery and pearls. Women in cities wore dresses with closed necks. Women's hair was covered by veils or scarves, and only unmarried girls could go out without covering their heads. In cold weather a cloak was worn over the dress, but according to sources there were sheep-skin coats for women too.

There is substantial information about the clothes of three queens: Beatrix, Anna of Candale and Maria Habsburg. Only written sources reported about the clothes of the first two queens, but one of the elegant items of clothing belonging to Maria, Louis II's wife is the treasure of the Hungarian National Museum. Maria's wedding dress was a deeply cut, green, silk-damask dress, and she wore a white linen shirt under it, which was decorated with silver embroidery on the neck and sleeves. The material of the dress was made in Italy and it was made in accordance with the latest German renaissance fashion of the beginning of the 16th century - which was just about to form.

Queens usually had dresses made according to Italian, French or German fashions. However, in the 15th century there was a special Hungarian dress - which was very difficult to restore. In 1457 Ladislaus V sent a Hungarian dress to his French fiancée, Princess Magdalena, and similarly Matthias gave a Hungarian dress to Beatrix, then to his son's fiancée, Bianca Maria Sforza. Typical Hungarian clothes were sheep-skin coats with fur and the pearled Hungarian head-dress, which was also given to Beatrix by Matthias.

Clothes were supplemented with decorative jewels for both sexes. We have detailed descriptions about Matthias's and Beatrix's jewels, none of which have survived. Cesare Valentini mentioned Matthias's ruby-pearl crest. His clothes were decorated with precious stones and a necklace with precious stones and pearls. In 1499 Beatrix took orders concerning her ruby-pearled brooch and gold necklace decorated with diamonds and emeralds. Barons also had such valuable jewels: Michael Újlaki, the Bosnian king, wore a gold necklace at Matthias's wedding, and the locket hanging from it was decorated with a huge sapphire stone and 300 smaller diamonds.

There are several testaments concerning jewels: in the testament of Moses Buzai - who caused a sensation with his unusual hair style with pearls - a valuable gold necklace, precious stones and rings are mentioned among others. As well as the jewels in Buzai's testament (he was a landowner in county Tolna), there was a treasure find, excavated in Tolna. Gold-plated silver dishes and jewels were hidden from the Turks in the 16th century. The owners of these must have been wealthy local tradesmen. Gold-plated silver renaissance jewels - belt and dress hooks, a hanger with a grenade apple decoration, and a fragment of a necklace were found among the treasure.

[Kallisto777]

Примного благодана! спасибо)) мужской костюм, что надо)))

[Umeko]

На здоровье. Это первые ссылки в гугл-картинках по запросу "hungarian costume 15 century". ))) Женский не особо отличается от среднеевропейского.

[Kallisto777]

а я на русском писала...)

[Umeko]

Kallisto777 я бы не догадалась, наверное ))

[@-----VoLyA-----@]

bauernhofarchiv.blogspot.com/2011/05/ungarn-tra...

www.akpool.de/ansichtskarten/24046728-ansichtsk...

www.akpool.de/ansichtskarten/251170-kuenstler-a...

ne znaju kakogo eto veka, no eto nationalnaya odezhda Hungary (Vengria)

[Kallisto777]

интересные)) но это костюмы не совсем 15 века, мне кажется. Всё равно большое спасибо, что отозвались)))